House hunting in Varkala

The grand plan always included renting a house in one of the beach towns of South India, but we were never very sure what we might find available. House hunting, whether in Lennoxville, Toronto or Calgary, has always produced anxiety that I might not be able to find anything suitable mixed with excitement that I might be offered the most amazing place to live at a price I can afford. The same sensations were there when we began our search in Varkala.

My usual ways to find out what was available do not exist in small town India; there is no English newspaper with classified ads, and we had not seen a notice board anywhere, so we had to somehow let the owners know we were looking. First, I asked the manager at our guesthouse, then I stopped in at most of the many tiny kiosks offering travel services. Everyone seemed most eager to help in our quest but needed some time to make enquiries, so I set up a series of appointment for later that day. At the last place, the woman at the counter did not understand my request, but an American at the adjoining Internet café suggested I ask at a nearby restaurant where the owner had spoken of a house to rent.

While people in the tourism industry generally speak some English, most have only a rudimentary vocabulary, which, combined with a very strong accent makes communication difficult. I was never completely sure that my “agents” knew what I wanted, and often I was unsure of some important details like what is included in the rent, when we could move in etc. Over the next day an a half I had many re-scheduled appointments but got to see five different houses, ranging from a very elegant and large house that was still so new the electric fixtures were not installed, to a very simple and extremely dirty house with no evident bathroom. Interestingly, all were asking the same rent, (which was 2,000 rupees more that I said was our maximum) or at least I think that’s what I was told. These excursions almost always included a few hangers-on whose role was never made clear, but they engaged in animated discussions and someone’s cell phone was always ringing.

Before we left Canada I had said that my greatest worry was not being able to find a decent house here in India. My fear was completely unfounded and this house hunting experience was probably more pleasant than any other I have known. After only 3 days we had found a house we really liked, at a rent we could afford and knowing the hassles of moving to a new town, we decided that we would stay in Varkala for the next three months.

Details of the house to be posted soon!

Steve