Our time in Varkala is drawing to a close. We will be sad to leave, but are looking forward to the adventure of being on the move and seeing and doing marvelous things. Of course we plan to keep posting stories of our travels, but there may be some longer gaps between posts depending on how easily we find Internet Cafes.
Note: click on the underlined names to link directly to websites with tourist information about the place.
Our plan so far is as follows:
Feb 12 we catch the 7:30 am express train north, and after 2 changes and 30 hrs we arrive in Ooty. Udhagamandalam, is the official Hindi name for Ooty, one of the best known hill stations that the British built up in the hills to escape the heat of the plains. We should be able to visit a tea plantation.
Then on to Mudumali National Park where we hope to see wild elephants and domesticated ones working at logging.
From Feb 16-18 we are in Mysore, an lively ancient city in Karnataka state, famed for its palaces, silks and sandalwood.
After a brief stop to change trains in Bangalore, we take the overnight train to Hampi the vast ruins of what was a major trading city in the 14th C.
Our next stop is Badami site of a series of cave temples carved out of rock in the 5th C.
If all goes well and we have time we will stop in Bijapur to see the Islamic monuments that are thought to have inspired some aspects of the Taj Mahal. The actual Taj is much farther north and we will not be going there.
From Bijapur we take trains for two day and a night, arriving in Varanasi on Feb 25th. Varanasi is probably the most holy of Hindu cities along the Ganges river, and thought by some to be the oldest continually inhabited city in the world.
March 3 we fly to Kathmandu, and after a couple of days at my old haunt, the Kathmandu Guest House, we go trekking in the Himalayan mountains for 3 weeks.
April 3 we fly Kathmandu-Sharjah-Luxor, and plan to spend 2-3 weeks in Egypt.
Monday, January 29, 2007
Friday, January 26, 2007
Ashram & Backwater
Some people come to India to visit one of the many ashrams in the hopes of finding spiritual
harmony. An ashram visit seemed to fit in with the purpose of our trip, which is to see many of the different ways people live. The Amritapuri Ashram is only about 50 km from Varkala and, as it is very popular with western visitors, we have had first hand accounts (including Gord and Erin) of how inviting it is for even a less devoted visitor to see something of Ashram life.
Amritapuri is home to the “Amma”, or the hugging mother, who is one of India’s better-known spiritual leaders. The ashram, which is located in the fishing village where she grew up, is large enough to house thousands of visitors at any one time, and the 12 story pink buildings towering over the palms are quite a surprising sight. Once inside the gates, we were directed to the International Office, where two young German devotees in white cotton dhotis, efficiently checked us in. We were issued a corner room on the 11th floor of building D, with a view of the backwater canal and a wonderful cool breeze. The room was Spartan: one bare light bulb, mats on the floor (we knew to bring our own sheets) and a simple bathroom. Pillows were available on request, but
we didn’t think to go when the supply room was open!
Perhaps it was the large hotel complex look of the place but we were slow to get into the Ashram frame of mind and the kids found the pace a bit slow. In fact right up until minutes before we left, serious devotees felt they needed to remind us “this is an ashram, not a playground.” Like a boarding school or a resort, the day’s events are set to a schedule. We declined to join the 4:30-6:00am “Chanting the 1000 names of the Divine Mother” but did catch some of the “Meditation on the Beach at Sunset” and “Bhajans” or devotional singing at 7pm. As the Amma was not in residence the Bhajans were segregated and there were only
about 40 men at our session (Kathleen estimated 100 women at their location) where Rob and I chanted along with enthusiasm. I have always liked the sound of the harmonium and voices raised in song for Krishna, which seem to me to be the most musical of the eastern devotional chants, so I was glad to join a class in devotional singing. We were about a dozen foreigners, all new to the ashram, who were led by a pleasant French devotee through the fundamental patterns and vocal techniques of a few of the popular chants. As we chanted, I began to let the outside world slip away and understand the appeal of the devotional life in an ashram. As well, because of the class, we were able to join in the evening Bhajans with a
greater understanding and appreciation of what was taking place.
Meals were included in the cost of our room if we wanted join the long line of Indian devotees, students, and local poor who were invited to come in for rice and curry. After one Indian meal we discovered the western canteen that served pizza, toast with peanut butter and great coffee. At the canteen we met some other westerners, but mostly sightseers like us. The long-term devotees mostly kept to themselves, although Ann did speak to an American who had been there as long as possible for the past 12 years. I am sure that if we had stayed for a few days and participated in the daily chores we would have met more people, however one day was enough for this time.
Next morning we packed up and caught the train to Allepy. A huge part of Kerala is like Holland in that it is below sea level and the fields are drained into canals. According to the guidebooks, a boat trip on these backwaters is a “must do” for visitors to Kerala. We had
looked into an overnight houseboat but decided that we did not really need a relaxing break from our relaxing life, and I was concerned that the kids would find the views from a small boat too dull after a few hours. Instead we took the 2 hour ferry from Allepy to Kottayam, which is the equivalent of a local bus that makes countless stops as it plies its route along the backwater lakes and canals. We lucked into the front seats where we had a great view of the lakes and canals, rice paddies, and as is always the case in India, the constant pageant of life lived in public. We saw locals crammed into tiny canoes and Indian “big shots” drinking whisky on huge houseboats; farmers cutting grass, harvesting rice, scooping reeds, people going to work, coming from school, women washing clothes, dishes and themselves, and of course, men just
hanging out watching the people on the boat. The boat was reasonably comfortable, considering the fare came to less than $1 for all four of us, and we all agreed that a 2 hr trip was just about right.
To get to our flickr site with more pictures of the backwaters click on this handy link.
harmony. An ashram visit seemed to fit in with the purpose of our trip, which is to see many of the different ways people live. The Amritapuri Ashram is only about 50 km from Varkala and, as it is very popular with western visitors, we have had first hand accounts (including Gord and Erin) of how inviting it is for even a less devoted visitor to see something of Ashram life.Amritapuri is home to the “Amma”, or the hugging mother, who is one of India’s better-known spiritual leaders. The ashram, which is located in the fishing village where she grew up, is large enough to house thousands of visitors at any one time, and the 12 story pink buildings towering over the palms are quite a surprising sight. Once inside the gates, we were directed to the International Office, where two young German devotees in white cotton dhotis, efficiently checked us in. We were issued a corner room on the 11th floor of building D, with a view of the backwater canal and a wonderful cool breeze. The room was Spartan: one bare light bulb, mats on the floor (we knew to bring our own sheets) and a simple bathroom. Pillows were available on request, but
we didn’t think to go when the supply room was open!Perhaps it was the large hotel complex look of the place but we were slow to get into the Ashram frame of mind and the kids found the pace a bit slow. In fact right up until minutes before we left, serious devotees felt they needed to remind us “this is an ashram, not a playground.” Like a boarding school or a resort, the day’s events are set to a schedule. We declined to join the 4:30-6:00am “Chanting the 1000 names of the Divine Mother” but did catch some of the “Meditation on the Beach at Sunset” and “Bhajans” or devotional singing at 7pm. As the Amma was not in residence the Bhajans were segregated and there were only
about 40 men at our session (Kathleen estimated 100 women at their location) where Rob and I chanted along with enthusiasm. I have always liked the sound of the harmonium and voices raised in song for Krishna, which seem to me to be the most musical of the eastern devotional chants, so I was glad to join a class in devotional singing. We were about a dozen foreigners, all new to the ashram, who were led by a pleasant French devotee through the fundamental patterns and vocal techniques of a few of the popular chants. As we chanted, I began to let the outside world slip away and understand the appeal of the devotional life in an ashram. As well, because of the class, we were able to join in the evening Bhajans with a
greater understanding and appreciation of what was taking place.Meals were included in the cost of our room if we wanted join the long line of Indian devotees, students, and local poor who were invited to come in for rice and curry. After one Indian meal we discovered the western canteen that served pizza, toast with peanut butter and great coffee. At the canteen we met some other westerners, but mostly sightseers like us. The long-term devotees mostly kept to themselves, although Ann did speak to an American who had been there as long as possible for the past 12 years. I am sure that if we had stayed for a few days and participated in the daily chores we would have met more people, however one day was enough for this time.
Next morning we packed up and caught the train to Allepy. A huge part of Kerala is like Holland in that it is below sea level and the fields are drained into canals. According to the guidebooks, a boat trip on these backwaters is a “must do” for visitors to Kerala. We had
looked into an overnight houseboat but decided that we did not really need a relaxing break from our relaxing life, and I was concerned that the kids would find the views from a small boat too dull after a few hours. Instead we took the 2 hour ferry from Allepy to Kottayam, which is the equivalent of a local bus that makes countless stops as it plies its route along the backwater lakes and canals. We lucked into the front seats where we had a great view of the lakes and canals, rice paddies, and as is always the case in India, the constant pageant of life lived in public. We saw locals crammed into tiny canoes and Indian “big shots” drinking whisky on huge houseboats; farmers cutting grass, harvesting rice, scooping reeds, people going to work, coming from school, women washing clothes, dishes and themselves, and of course, men just
hanging out watching the people on the boat. The boat was reasonably comfortable, considering the fare came to less than $1 for all four of us, and we all agreed that a 2 hr trip was just about right.To get to our flickr site with more pictures of the backwaters click on this handy link.
Monday, January 22, 2007
Driving a Rickshaw by Rob
Do you know what an auto-rickshaw is? Well, I got to drive one!
It is a three-wheeled motorcycle with a compartment for passengers at the back. A rickshaw is used like a taxi, but because it is cheaper they are more common in Varkala. We will usually take a rickshaw home from town.
One day we were going to town with Wilson, a
rickshaw driver we knew quite well. He asked me if I wanted to help drive. I said yes, moved up front and he let me hold one handlebar while we were driving on our little laneway. I was surprised when we got to the road, instead of sending me back to the passenger compartment, he let me take over the steering. It was exciting to be on the road with other motorcycles, rickshaws and cars coming at you. I even had 
to drive past this ELEPHANT!!!! When we got to the main road, Wilson let me control the gas. In the end we made it to town safe and alive.
Wilson was surprised at how good a driver I was, but he did not know that my two grandpas have taught me how to drive!
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Kathakali by Kathleen
On January 14, we went to temple Junction to catch the 5pm bus. We wore our best Christmas outfits, I wore my dress with embroidery, Jane wore her green sari and Rob and wore his lungi and shirt. We sat on the first bus for half and hour. When we got to Attingal, we wandered around the broken, sewer-smelling sidewalks as we looked at the banana and cloth selling shops. We soon found a very fancy restaurant, which was the first restaurant we have been to that the waiters have outfits. After eating supper, we hurried off to catch a bus to Thonakkal. Once we got there, we still had to get to the temple to see the Kathakali. An auto-ricksaw took us.
As soon as we arrived some people moved to give us three chairs. The ladies sat on one side and the men on the other. We soon got a seat at the front and at once saw the faces much better. But it started to go on for a little bit so we went to the backstage to see the painting and met some of Aunt Jane’s friends. We were impressed how they could put the make-up on themselves. One of Jane’s friends was Umnithan, who was playing Shiva, the most important player in the Kathakali performance.
Once they got into their woodsman costumes, they started to admire themselves. He said that he had snakes in his pockets and a moon in his hair. Soon a boar came rushing out and he shot at the same time as Arjuna did. They started to fight and shoot arrows at each other. Quickly, Parvati, Shiva’s wife, started telling him “stop, this is your follower”. Since Shiva did not listen, Parvati hurried over to Arjuna and said “stop, you don’t realize who this is and if you don’t stop right now I will turn your arrows into flowers.” Arjuna shot again and his arrows turned into flowers. Parvati gave another announcement and said “there are no more arrows in your bag if you don’t stop shooting right away.” He shot again but then there were no arrows, so they started fighting bare-handed. Arjuna got spun and spun around and lost the fight. After they finished the fight Arjuna realized that he had been fighting with Siva, one of the most important gods in Hinduism.
After the play was finished we went to the back to see them get their make-up off and say good-bye to the players. The person playing Shiva gave me his chin chooti and Rob his funny flowered nose. It was almost midnight by the time we got home and I was half asleep.
As soon as we arrived some people moved to give us three chairs. The ladies sat on one side and the men on the other. We soon got a seat at the front and at once saw the faces much better. But it started to go on for a little bit so we went to the backstage to see the painting and met some of Aunt Jane’s friends. We were impressed how they could put the make-up on themselves. One of Jane’s friends was Umnithan, who was playing Shiva, the most important player in the Kathakali performance.
Once they got into their woodsman costumes, they started to admire themselves. He said that he had snakes in his pockets and a moon in his hair. Soon a boar came rushing out and he shot at the same time as Arjuna did. They started to fight and shoot arrows at each other. Quickly, Parvati, Shiva’s wife, started telling him “stop, this is your follower”. Since Shiva did not listen, Parvati hurried over to Arjuna and said “stop, you don’t realize who this is and if you don’t stop right now I will turn your arrows into flowers.” Arjuna shot again and his arrows turned into flowers. Parvati gave another announcement and said “there are no more arrows in your bag if you don’t stop shooting right away.” He shot again but then there were no arrows, so they started fighting bare-handed. Arjuna got spun and spun around and lost the fight. After they finished the fight Arjuna realized that he had been fighting with Siva, one of the most important gods in Hinduism.
After the play was finished we went to the back to see them get their make-up off and say good-bye to the players. The person playing Shiva gave me his chin chooti and Rob his funny flowered nose. It was almost midnight by the time we got home and I was half asleep.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
Rob's night of Kathakali
A Night of Kathakali
Daddy took us kids to the beach. When we got back, we were surprised to see Great Aunt Jane sitting on the porch. She invited us to a great kathakali performance later that evening at a nearby town. Daddy and kids decided to go with Aunt Jane.
We started with a 50 minutes bus ride to Attingal, and then we took a KSTB bus to Thonnakal and a rickshaw to the temple. The play was colorful, amazing and astonishing. The play was named Kirata because the Hindu god Siva is disguised as Kirata a hunter. The main actors were Siva-Kirata, Arjuna and Parvati. When Siva Kirata first comes out onto the stage, he shows Parvati his wonderful hunter costume. The scene I enjoyed the most was when Kirata an Arjuna had a humongous fight because Siva wanted to test Arjuna if he really believed in Siva. I really liked that scene because there was the most action and I like plays like that. I also liked
the way Parvati used her powers. First she turned Arjuna’s arrows into flowers, which was really funny and then she took away Arjuna’s bow and Arjuna fought with his bare hands. To end the fight Siva Kirata picked up Arjuna and threw him into the woods.
After the play the man who played Siva Kirata gave us his nose and chootis (face decorations).
I had a great night of Kathakali!
Daddy took us kids to the beach. When we got back, we were surprised to see Great Aunt Jane sitting on the porch. She invited us to a great kathakali performance later that evening at a nearby town. Daddy and kids decided to go with Aunt Jane.
We started with a 50 minutes bus ride to Attingal, and then we took a KSTB bus to Thonnakal and a rickshaw to the temple. The play was colorful, amazing and astonishing. The play was named Kirata because the Hindu god Siva is disguised as Kirata a hunter. The main actors were Siva-Kirata, Arjuna and Parvati. When Siva Kirata first comes out onto the stage, he shows Parvati his wonderful hunter costume. The scene I enjoyed the most was when Kirata an Arjuna had a humongous fight because Siva wanted to test Arjuna if he really believed in Siva. I really liked that scene because there was the most action and I like plays like that. I also liked
the way Parvati used her powers. First she turned Arjuna’s arrows into flowers, which was really funny and then she took away Arjuna’s bow and Arjuna fought with his bare hands. To end the fight Siva Kirata picked up Arjuna and threw him into the woods.After the play the man who played Siva Kirata gave us his nose and chootis (face decorations).
I had a great night of Kathakali!
Thursday, January 11, 2007
le Noel de Kathleen
Noël à Varkala
La Veil de Noël est arrivée! Notre Tante Jane est venu fêter avec nous.
Mon amie Kitty nous a aidé de décorer notre arbre du noël. Il était une feuille de noix de coco.
Pour souper, nous avons décidé de manger dans un restaurant sur la falaise qui s’appelle The Little Tibet. Il était délicieux.
En revenant de souper, Rob et moi avons écrit nos lettres pour le père noël et lui laisser des biscuits.
25 Décembre. Noël est arrivé!
Noël matin, moi et mon frère, très excité, sommes allés a notre arbre de Noël pour ouvrir nos cadeaux du Père Noël avec nos parents. J’ai reçu la plus belle robe indienne d’une couleur rose et jaune orange.Ensuite, nous sommes allés à la plage pour se baigner. Moi et mon frère sommes allés à une fête de football que mes petits amis ont organisé.
Dans l’après-midi, notre famille a ouvert le reste de nos cadeaux. J’ai reçu une belle montre de mes grands parents, et une Poly Poquet de mon autre Tante Jane.
Krystina et Mark, nos amis de Toronto, sont venu chez nous pour un souper indien cuit par notre voisine. Il faisait chaud et nous avons mangé sur le toit de notre maison. Ensemble, nous avons regardé les belles étoiles, et s’amusaient à échanger des petits cadeaux. Après le souper, nous avons présenté Good King Wenceslas à nos visiteurs, Tante Jane et Kumari. Après ils sont partis pour aller chez eux.J’ai bien aimé mes cadeaux et nos visiteurs au souper. Je m’ennuie de mes grands parents, mes cousins et cousines, et Finnegan!
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